Persian Shadowbox Pendant

This project is brought to you by Tony Mack, a jeweler from Williamsport, PA.

Tools:

JCS Bench Pin and Anvil
Jeweler’s Saw (4")
Fine Saw Blades
Flex Shaft
#60 Drill Bit
Center Punch
Half Round File
Three-square (Triangular) File
Flat Nose Plier
Round Nose Plier
Shears / Flush Cutter
2.5" Divider/Compass
Jeweler’s Hammer
Smith propane/oxygen “Little Torch”
Oxygen/Propane
Soldering Block
Battern’s Self Pickling Flux
Soldering Pick or Steel Tweezer
Pickling Pot
Pickling Acid
8.5" Copper Tong
Jax Silver Blackener
Small Paintbrush (x2, labeled)
2" Mounted Buff (x2)
Grey Star Initial Polishing Compound
Rouge Polishing Compound
Polishing Cloth

Materials:

6"x2" Sterling Silver Sheet (20 gauge)
Easy, Medium, and Hard Silver Solder Wire
Paper template
Rubber Cement

Step One: Preparation

Print out the template provided on standard printer paper. Cut out both sections, allowing an extra 1/4inch to each (horizontal) side. [figure 1]

Prepare two pieces of 20 gauge sheet silver to fit each template. The exact measurements in our example are 2" (51mm) x 1, 3/16" (38mm). [figure 2] Apply rubber cement to the entire blank side of each template, and adhere them to your fitted sheet metal sections; securing the allotted ¼ inch of paper around the back. [figures 3, 4]

Step Two: Partitioning

With your hammer and center punch, tap a guide-point for your drill bit in the center of the bale and moon. [figure 5] Drill through the guide-points with a #50 drill bit. [figure 6] Taking up your jewelers saw, thread a fine saw blade through your guide point and cut out the center bale and moon portions. [figure 7, 8]

Proceed cutting out the rest of your pieces, and put your silver scrap aside for later use. Take pieces A, B, & C, [figure 9] and file all sawn or otherwise rough edges with a half-round file; using the round side if your file to clean curved edges. [figure 10]

Step Three: Forming

Using a divider/compass, score the back of piece (A) as shown. Do the same on the opposite edge. [figure 11] Using the guides you’ve just etched, saw into piece (A) no more than ¼ of the way through. [figure 12] File into both cuts with a three-square (triangular) file, ½ way through. [figure 13] With a pair of flat nose pliers, carefully bend the edges of piece (A) to a 90 degree angle. [figure 14] Adjust as necessary so that the angled edges of piece (A) fit tightly over the edges of piece (B).

Step Four: Hard Solder

Take pieces A and B to your soldering block. Cut off a 1" portion each of Easy, Medium, and Hard solder wire. Clip them into 2mm length pieces with a wire cutter. Be sure to keep your solder chips in separate containers, labeled by their degree of harness. With a small brush, apply flux inside of the angled edges of piece (A), and the outer edges of piece (B) that make contact with piece (A). Fit pieces (A & B) together so that the top of each piece is level (not including the bale). Sit both pieces together over the edge of your soldering block to where a small portion of piece (A) makes contact with the block; and set three pieces of your 20 gauge scrap silver between both pieces on the opposite end. [figure 15]

This provides a counter weight, and will prevent the smaller portions of piece (A) from sinking during soldering. Give the piece an even heat with your torch until the flux has bubbled up and settled. With a pair of steel tweezers, place four 2mm pieces of Hard solder along the inside edges where pieces (A & B) make contact. Bring the torch back to the piece for soldering. Be sure that you heat both pieces as evenly as possible. Note that the upper portion (piece A) has less surface area than the lower (piece B), and makes little contact with the soldering block. Concentrate your flame to piece (B), and the angled portion of piece (A) [figure 16].

Make slow and deliberate passes around the rest of the piece periodically; all the while being sure to keep the glow of heat even throughout. When both pieces reach an even glow, concentrate your flame back to where the pieces meet until the solder flows. Allow the piece to cool without quenching, and remove the counter weight scrap silver [figure 17].

Step Five: Medium Solder

When your piece comes back to room temperature, bring (piece C) to the soldering block. Have your Medium solder ready. Apply flux to one side of (piece C), and the portion of piece (A) to which it makes contact. Lay (piece C) on top of piece (A), and situate it as you would have it soldered. Take your torch to it slowly. The top portion will likely move out of place as the flux begins to boil underneath. With your hand opposite the torch, use a soldering pick to realign (piece C) while both pieces are being heated. Remove the flame, and begin applying 2mm Medium solder pieces around the points of contact between A and C. While the piece remains hot, the solder chips will stick to it at the seams. Gently reheat the piece as needed if your solder does not stick to the seams. If the solder chips do not cooperate with you in this manner, dip each piece into a cap full of flux before application. Once your solder chips are in place, you may begin soldering. [figure 18]

Begin by heating the entire piece evenly. When it reaches an even glow, concentrate your flame around the contact points of (piece A & C) until the solder flows into and around the joints. Allow the piece to come back to room temperature without quenching.

Step Six: Bale Forming/Easy Solder

When your piece again comes back to room temperature, remove the Medium solder from your soldering station and ready your Easy solder. With a pair of round nose pliers, shape the bale to curve backward so that the end meets the top of piece (B) [figure 19, 20]. Apply flux at the joint of the bale and piece (B), and boil the flux with your torch. Remove the flame and place one 2mm Easy solder chip at the joint. Reapply the torch [figure 21], concentrating most of the flame to piece (B), and heat until the solder flows into the joint. Be mindful not to overheat, and risk melting/breaking the bale portion; as it is will heat up much more rapidly than piece (B). Once Soldering is complete, place your now nearly-finished pendant into a heated pickle bath for 10-15 minutes.

Step Seven: Finishing

Remove your piece from it’s acidic bath to dry. Take your piece now through its initial polishing. For our example piece, I used a 2" mounted buffing wheel (on flex shaft), with grey (course) polishing compound. Be especially careful when polishing the portions of piece (A) which hang over piece (B), that they do not bend out of place. If they do, however, it is an easy fix with a pair of flat nosed pliers. Remove any residual polishing compound, and ready a second small paint brush and JAX silver blackener. Apply a liberal coat of the blackening solution to the face of piece (B), and set to dry [figure 22].

If you happen to blacken a part of piece (A) in the process, do not be discouraged. Once the blackening solution has completely dried, the pendant is ready for its final polishing. Remove the buffing wheel used for initial polishing, and mount a clean second to your flex shaft. Apply rouge to your second buff, and give your piece a fine polish; careful to avoid the blackened portion of piece (B). Clean off any residual rouge compound, and give your finished piece a final touch with a polishing cloth.