Print out the template provided on standard printer paper. Cut out both sections, allowing an extra 1/4inch to each (horizontal) side. [figure 1]
Prepare two pieces of 20 gauge sheet silver to fit each template. The exact measurements in our example are 2" (51mm) x 1, 3/16" (38mm). [figure 2] Apply rubber cement to the entire blank side of each template, and adhere them to your fitted sheet metal sections; securing the allotted ¼ inch of paper around the back. [figures 3, 4]
Karen Dougherty found some vintage micro watch crystals in a bin in our Metalliferous booth at Bead Fest in Pennsylvania last fall. You never know what you’ll find in those bins! She says she “always love to collect little things that I can sink into ICE Resin. Glitter, glass, sequins, seed beads…” Whatever floats your boat, go for it! ICE Resin is so fun and EASY to use. Karen has made us another a tutorial, this time for a domed resin ring with an adjustable band.
Tools:
Bench pin
Safety Eyewear
Metal ruler
Scribe
Regular Hammer
Fretz texturing hammer
Ring clamp
Disc Cutter
Stainless steel work surface
Center Finder or circle template with markings (see this link for the template)
3M Sanding sponges/ Sand paper or flat files
Doming Block and a large doming punch
Nylon Hammer
Tube cutting jig
Jeweler’s saw
2/0 saw blades
#31 or #32 twist drill bit
Flex shaft
Cut lube or bees wax
Center punch
Round file or diamond bead reamer
1 1/8” circle template
Ring clamp
Riveting hammer
Wrap and Tab pliers (small)
JAX green patina
JAX brown patina
JAX Dichroic FX patina
JAX cleaning solutions
Fine felt tip marker
Quench bowl
Measuring cups
Q-tips
JAX Silver plating solution
Universal dapping tool
Toothpick or wooden skewer
Materials:
2 ¾” x 3/8” patterned brass strip for ring shank/band
22 or 24 gauge sheet copper
Patterned brass sheet
ICE Resin
Inclusions of your choice (I used vintage watch crystals)
Techniques:
Sawing
Drilling
Doming
Tube Riveting
Filing
Plating
Texturing
Forming
Patination
Get all your supplies ready, and let’s begin!
STEP ONE: Making the Ring shank
Use a metal ruler and scribe to mark the outline and center of two - 2 ¾” long x 3/8” high rectangles along the back side of a piece of patterned brass strip (1).
I scribe two or more at a time. When possible, I like to sign my work (2). Take this opportunity to either scribe or engrave your name on the inside of your ring shank while it’s in the “flat” stage. I used a diamond coated bit, but feel free to use whatever method words best for you!
STEP TWO:
Use a center punch and hammer to make a divot in the center of the back of each of your ring shank shapes. This will be your mark for your #31 or #32 drill holes. Grasp your sheet with a ring clamp, and drill your holes (3).
Use a jewelers saw and a lubricated 2/0 saw blade to cut along your scribe lines. Remove any rough edges with a flat file, sand paper or sanding sponges (4). Set your band aside for now.
STEP THREE:
Punch out a 1” disc of 22, or 24 gauge sheet copper, with a disc cutter and a heavy hammer. If you don’t have a disc cutter, use a circle template and saw one out (5).
Texture your disc with a Fretz hammer if you have one, or any texturing hammer will do. Strike the disk from the center outward, in a swiping motion while turning the disk (6/7).
STEP FOUR:
Mark the center on the back of your disc with a center finding tool or a nylon drafting circle template and a ruler to draw an “X” on the back of your disc to mark center point (8).
Use a center punch to make a divot and drill a hole with the matching drill bit you used in the previous step, either a #31 or #32 drill. Ream out the hole to remove burrs or roughness (9/10).
STEP FIVE:
Since disc cutters rarely cut over 1" circles, use a circle template to mark or scribe a 1 1/8” circle on the back of a piece of patterned brass (11). Saw out shape with a jewelers saw and a 2/0 blade. Center punch a divot and drill a hole in the middle of your disc with a smaller #42 drill bit. Make sure to use this smaller drill bit because when you dap this shape in the dapping block the hole you’ve drilled will expand.
STEP SIX:
Place your disc in the doming block, making sure that the whole diameter fits inside the rim (12).
Give it a good whack with your largest dapping punch, and proceed to dap the shape in smaller diameter spaces until you form a cup shape that suits you (13/14).
File the edges smooth with a flat file (15).
STEP SEVEN:
Use a tube cutting jig and your jewelers saw to cut a 5/8” length piece of 1/8” round brass tubing (16). File both ends of the tubing so it stands straight on your steel bench block. Take the time to make sure your piece is completely straight and the ends are flat (17).
STEP EIGHT:
Clean your pieces thoroughly with JAX cleaning solutions to ensure you have even coatings of patinas and other surface coloring.
Color your pieces with JAX patinas (18/19). I dip a Q-tip and put a coating on the metal sitting on a paper towel. Let it sit until you like the color and quench in water. Repeat to intensify the effect. I used Green on my copper disc and Dichroic FX black on the patterned brass. I buff the color with a polishing cloth. And repeat the process.
I also dipped my domed brass shape and my copper disc in JAX silver plating solution for a very cool effect (20/21/22).
STEP NINE:
Load your pieces together on the piece of tubing and gently flare out each end with a universal dapping tool (22). Flip and tap lightly (23). Repeat. Try not to bend your piece of tubing. If you do, scrap it, and try again. I did!
STEP TEN:
Use a riveting hammer to flatten out the rim of the tubing on both ends (24/25).
STEP ELEVEN:
Mix ICE Resin according to directions. I use a toothpick or a wooden shishkebob skewer to mix resin. I apply resin into small spaces by dipping the toothpick in the resin then letting it drip off the end into small spaces (26). Set up your piece where it can cure for 24 hours without being moved. Make sure you set up on a clean surface and prepare a box that will fit over your piece while it cures. (Keeps out the stink bugs, haha!). Fill the cup halfway and try place your crystals or beads or whatever you want as strategically as you wish. If you see an air bubble you can tap around on the table until it rises to the surface. Or you can poke it with the tooth pick. You have some time at the stage. Cover your piece and let it cure for 24 hours.
STEP TWELVE:
Mix up another batch of resin and slowly drip to add resin and more crystals until it domes over the edge (27).
STEP THIRTEEN:
Use small wrap and tap pliers to form the adjustable ring band (28). Peel away any resin that might have seeped out of the dome. It should be minimal. Use an exacto blade to cut it off.
Enjoy your new ring!
All of the supplies from this tutorial are available from Metalliferous.
Karen Dougherty brings us another fabulous tutorial! Check it out:
In a marshy field behind our house there are the most amazing gatherings of fireflies during the summer months. The conditions must be ideal for them. I love to drag my friends down there so we can giggle about how crazy cool it is. It’s one of my favorite things.
Print the shapes provided on regular weight bond paper. I use laser paper. Roughly cut out your shapes and apply a thin layer of rubber cement on the back side of each one. Then apply a thin layer of rubber cement on the back side of your patterned sheet metal to match up to your laser prints. Let both air dry for a minute or two and strategically apply your drawings to your sheet metal to minimize waste (Image 1).
TIP: I use rubber cement because it’s such easy clean up.
STEP TWO:
Use a jewelers saw with a lubricated 2/0 blade to cut out all your pieces (Image 2).
TIP: Unscrew one end of your saw blade and thread it through large holes. Reattach your blade to cut out interior shapes.
Drill holes with a #60 Twist drill bit, or use small and large hole punching pliers to punch large and small holes where indicated (Image 3). Use a scribe to mark guides along the dotted lines for fold forming (Image 4). Gently tap down around hole locations with a ball peen hammer to flatten out any ridges or bends. Ream out any burrs or roughness with a diamond bead reamer or small round file (Image 5).
STEP THREE:
Remove all paper backings and file edges of all your pieces. Thoroughly clean each piece with jewelry cleaner. Be careful not to get any oil on your pieces from your fingers. Use a tissue to handle them after you clean and dry them (Image 6).
Patina your pieces with JAX Patina. I use simple paint brushes to paint on a thin layer of patina. It works pretty fast, so when you like the effect, rinse it off in cold water. Sand with Ultra-fine 3M sanding sponge to shine the relief texture. Repeat patina process to intensify the effect. Use renaissance wax or spray matte lacquer on your pieces to preserve the patina (Images 7 & 8).
STEP FOUR
Grasp the lightbulb upside down in a ring clamp and use a #53 Twist drill bit to drill out the metal piece at the base of the bulb. I clipped out the rest of the plastic inside the metal electrical housing with my flush cutters (Images 9, 10, & 11).
Note: The bulb inside is one bubble shaped piece of glass, so try not to drill down into it.
STEP FIVE:
Form piece “D” to fit around your bulb. I used a bezel mandrel and a nylon hammer. Fold along scribed lines with flat nose pliers (Image 12). Hold your pieces with the bulb together to check your alignment (Image 13). Use the front left hole on “D” as your guide for drilling a hole through the back plate “A”. Insert a nut and bolt to hold them together temporarily. Proceed to drill the right hole, and put another set of bolts through that hole (Image 14).
STEP SIX:
Remove the Phillips head screw from the top of the Thumb light and set aside. Remove the adhesive paper from the back of the light and align it with the light bulb. Now when you push the button, the bulb looks lit up. Remove piece “D” and set aside (Image 15).
STEP SEVEN:
Fold piece “B” along scribed lines as shown (Image 16). Replace Phillips head screw through the top hole in “B” and back into the top of the Thumb light (Image 17). Use the holes on the back side of the piece as your guide to drill through the “tabs” in piece “B”. Use sheers or a jewelers saw to trim off excess (Image 18). Replace piece “D” to sandwich the tabs on piece “B” underneath “D”. Screw nuts and bolts through all three layers and snip off excess tab material with metal sheers or jewelers saw (Images 19 & 20).
STEP EIGHT:
Use a ring clamp to hold piece “C” in alignment with piece “B”. Use the hole on the end of the wing as your guide to drill hole into piece “B”. Use either 1.8mm hole punching pliers, or a #53 Twist drill bit. Attach them together with a nut and bolt (Image 21). Drill or punch hole in the opposite end of the opposite wing (Image 22).
STEP NINE:
Pair up the layers for the upper wing sets. E goes with G, and F goes with H. Slide them to sandwich into position beneath “B” and above thumb light (Image 23). Use the holes in piece “C” and “B” as your guides for drilling holes into the wing sets (Image 24).
STEP TEN:
Insert flower spacers onto two bolts and thread them through the holes in piece “B”. Insert nuts and bolts through holes in piece “C” (Image 25).
STEP ELEVEN:
Hold gears in position and mark through center holes for placement. Punch holes with 1.8 hole punching pliers. Load flower spacers and gears onto bolts and attach (Image 26).
STEP TWELVE:
Use Wrap and Tap pliers to form the bale. Use a fine tip marker to mark location for back hole, and punch with hole punching pliers. Attach bail with bolt and nut (Image 27).
STEP THIRTEEN:
Tighten all your nuts and bolts, and snip off excess, leaving approx.. 1mm of bolt length beyond the nut. Use a riveting hammer in order to smooth and flatten out the bolt end, making them permanent rivets. Use a bit of E6000 adhesive on the bolts you can’t reach to rivet (Image 28).
Karen Dougherty created this bracelet with Nickel silver, copper tubing, and flower shapes from Metalliferous. She used simple oval shaped links of antique finished brass chain to hold it all together and she made her own clasp out of 14 gauge brass wire. You can use these or other materials, as you are inspired in your own designs!
STEP ONE: Cut out your base discs for the 3 large flower links. I used 26 gauge nickel silver. Follow my simple disc cutting technique to maximize your material.
